AZAAN-E-SRINAGAR
During one of our regular evening walks in Satwari, Jammu, I bumped into an old acquaintance, an officer, with whom I had served earlier, in Pune .This led to us getting together over drinks in the evening, one of the very good things about Indian Army.
Life happens, almost all the time ,when you are planning it. It was a chance encounter, with that Officer , and during drinks he invited us to the Valley, as he was posted there . We literally jumped at the Offer. We planned our first trip to valley next day itself, as it was a long awaited one for both of us .Valley had been on our respective minds for quite some time . The trip, a short one , was in Apr 2019 and we came back fully satiated after basking in the beauty of paradise on earth, the Kashmir Valley and ticking off the main tourists spots.
“Gar firdaus bar-rue zameen ast , hameen asto , hameen asto , hameen ast “ meaning if there is haven on earth , it is here , it is here, it is here . These are the words of Amir Khusrau , a famous poet of Delhi Sultanate , court poet of Alauddin Khilji (1235-1335 AD), known as father of Urdu literature , father of Qawaali , Tuti -e-Hind( Parrot of India ). His these words were for Kashmir .
We wanted to visit valley as we had anticipated that we would not be visiting valley again, but little did we know that Allah had other plans for us . After a two years of sabbatical ,study leave ,at Lucknow, which I gainfully used to train ourselves, self and wife, for impending retirement by doing nothing at all, I have gotten good at it . I got posted again to Jammu and Kashmir and this time it was in valley proper, that is Srinagar. I guess I had realised long back that I am really good at "doing nothing" , which surely requires right aptitude , attitude and a lot of practice . Though in my heart I secretly envy those who are always doing something and when they are not doing anything they are thinking of doing something . In sharp contrast to me who is doing nothing , most of the time , and when I am not doing nothing , that is when I am actually doing something, I am always thinking of doing nothing .
We landed, on posting , in Srinagar on 10 Sep 2022, excited to be staying in the place where people go for vacations. Our stay ,for the first few days, was in a Aluchi Bagh, which is in heart of city and gives a ghetto-ish feeling with extreme presence of security forces , with Police HQ and SP’s office in near vicinity . There are lot of Masjids around which belt out Azaans, a call for prayer, making the complete scenario, intimidating for an outsider . A visit to valley can be intimidating for the uninitiated, due to total change in landscape, excessive presence of security forces and misplaced perception , based on what has been and continues to be fed . Seeing so many people with long beards, skull caps , different clothing and the sound of Azaans, five times a day, adds to extreme unfamiliarity. The evolved ones get used to the frequent loud call for prayers , the way we do for nearby temples and Gurudwaras in cities/villages across India but we all are entitled to our hypocrisy .
After our previous visit to valley, we, self and Upasna had amicably agreed, one of those rare occasion, that though Kashmir Valley actually deserves the Words of Amir Khusrao in calling it heaven on earth but unfortunately its beauty is equally cursed. Which was later vindicated when we read more about it and watched some beautiful documentaries on Kashmir .
After our initial stay at Aluchi Bagh, we shifted to Badami Bagh (BB)Cantt, the place which was to be later rechristened by us as “the Best Hill Station in India”. In the first week of our stay in Srinagar we went out three to four times to have a feel of the City, which included a romantic boat ride on Dal Lake in the evening with Ghazals, Vodka and friends . After all you have to do what you do best.
Courtesy my new appointment, I had to go to city everyday from BB Cantt, a privilege not accorded to many posted in the Valley, and also travel to various districts of South Kashmir, the hub of terrorism in bygone era .
The regular movement and interaction exposed me to much needed change and development at ground level in the Valley. Seeing the Indian Flag furling at Government Degree College Anantnag and later at almost all Govt buildings and colleges was a matter of relief and pride, we have now managed to thwart the nefarious plans of our western neighbour . My regular interactions with locals indicated how they waited for this change and how happy they were with the revenge tourism, after Corona, putting balm on their deep wounds.
Part of my job was to interact with young adults and students. It was such a joy to see bonds being built with rest of the country at many levels , specially punjabi music,playing a major role . Sidhu Moosewala lives in the hearts of Kashmiri youth too.
I quickly learnt to greet in Kashmiri accent ,‘Asslam Wale Kum’,and use of common words like Masla , Insha Allah in my vocabulary. My surname, Bhatt, helped many times to initiate conversation with locals and talk about the Shaivite connection of Bhats of valley with Bhatts of Gharwal, Kumaon.
“De Shiva Var Mohe” (Bless me lord Shiva )……
It starts getting cold in Oct and we primed ourself by buying famous Ooshin socks and inners as ,”normal socks and inners don’t work in peak winters ,”was the knowledge handed down to us.
Initially I found myself wearing a Pyjama to bed , rarely done earlier, and later using warm inners, including inner bottoms, to office, something that I had not done in my life earlier. I was elated when my decision, to buy an oil radiator, which was earlier quite discredited ,got appreciated by wife , a rare occasion again.
The Valley must be the only place in India where you see and feel all seasons in full bloom. Spring, Summer, , Autumn and of course the Winters. Autumn was beautiful with all colourful leaves on trees anticipating fall . The evening walks are a joy in BB Cantt, where you get to see a distinct change in flora and fauna around every thirty days.
Living in winters in Srinagar is an unique experience when the Valley is covered with white sheets of snow interspersed with winding Jhelum passing through the white sheets . You dread moving to any area without sufficient layers . Going for walks with gloves on, an idea I would have scoffed earlier, was welcomed. We both, yet again, agreed that such severe winters, like that of the Valley, is good for us only for visiting and not staying.
The Valley exposed us to many things including famous authentic Wazwan, Noon chai , different kinds of kashmiri breads and Dhaniya chicken to name a few .The evening walks on Dal Boulevard, boating on Dal lake in evenings, with lights of cities and heights of Zabarwan hills surrounding Dal lake and unique floating vegetable market on the Lake early morning, where vendors sell their wares on boats on lake .are etched on our minds .
There are number of places and things about the Valley which promise to stay in your mind forever . There were many occasions , when we tried, like kids in candy store , to capture images on our phones ,but later decided to let them just stay in our minds. No phone or even DSLR can ever do justice to the joy or beauty of valley . Its a futile attempt. We did touristy things and hidden gems too but to top it all we allowed ourselves to feel the place and interact with Avam, a urdu word for common people.
We consider ourselves very lucky to have spent a year in a place where people go when they want to go for exotic Vacations .
Fortunately we got to see all the Seasons. Our stay was cut short by a year and instead of two years we stayed for a year only . Something which is rued only because of the connection, I had with my local staff from my office and the beautiful sights of Srinagar .I still carry with me images of those beautiful people, in heaven on earth ,memories of those heavenly sights and the soothing sounds of Azaans of Srinagar
16 comments:
An excellent blog that captures the essence of the Kashmir Valley especially of Srinagar. The author has very sensitively portrayed what he has seen and heard. It’s heartening to know that the Kashmiri people, resilient as ever, have thoroughly and completely denounced violence in all its form. The author’s interaction with young adults captures the zeitgeist of Naya Kashmir.
Gr8 wk Deepak!!
Beautiful!!!
It's an apt tribute to Kashmir and people.
This is just superb sir.. so well written and explained.. will definitely visit Kashmir one day..
Very well written. It’s almost as if I was there with you. Keep at it and share your rich life here. God bless Kashmir
Thanks a lot
What a beautifully written piece about your experiences in Kashmir! Your descriptions of the landscapes, culture, and people are vivid and captivating. The way you weave in historical and literary references, like Amir Khusrau's famous lines, adds depth and context. Your anecdotes about adapting to life in Srinagar, from wearing warm inners to enjoying Wazwan feasts, are relatable and entertaining. The way you highlight the Valley's unique charm, from the floating vegetable market to the sounds of Azaans, is truly evocative. You've managed to convey the complexities of Kashmir's beauty and its cursed blessings. Your writing has a conversational tone, making it feel like a personal conversation. Well done!
Your blogs are a beautiful blend of insight and emotion—each word feels carefully chosen, and every post leaves a lasting impression. You have a gift for turning thoughts into stories that truly connect. Keep writing; the world needs your voice.
Your blogs are a beautiful blend of insight and emotion—each word feels carefully chosen, and every post leaves a lasting impression. You have a gift for turning thoughts into stories that truly connect. Keep writing; the world needs your voice.
Shukran
Shukran
Shukran
Thanks a lot Sir
Shukran
Thank you bhai , par daru tu hi peelayega
Thanks a lot HP , a genuine praise coming from you is cherished
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